Last year I grew broccoli. The worms grew it with me. This year, when to plant Broccoli in Kentucky has taken on a new meaning, win against the worms.
I planted Calabrese and Waltham 29 — both solid Kentucky varieties — and felt pretty good about it. Then I turned over a leaf one morning and found what I can only describe as a small green army. Cabbage loopers. Imported cabbageworm. All of them very happy, very hungry, and completely at home on my broccoli.
I didn’t lose everything, but I lost enough to take it personally.
This year I’m back with a plan. Di Cicco heirloom broccoli, a freshly tilled and amended dirt-raised bed, onions interplanted as companions, and row cover going on from day one. I grew broccoli in both spring and fall last year — enough to know what went wrong and what I’m doing differently.
This is what I know about when to plant broccoli in Kentucky, what actually works in our climate, and how to keep the worms from winning.
From my homestead: I garden in Zone 7a in western Kentucky. My broccoli goes into a tilled and amended dirt raised bed this year — not a perfect galvanized setup, just good soil mounded and worked. That’s real homesteading. Work with what you have.
When to Plant Broccoli in Kentucky
Broccoli is a cool-season crop — it belongs to the same family as cabbage, cauliflower, and kale, what the UK Extension calls cole crops. It grows best when temperatures stay below 80°F, which gives us two windows in Kentucky: spring and fall.
And here’s something worth knowing upfront: fall broccoli is actually better quality than spring broccoli in Kentucky. The UK Cooperative Extension confirms this — broccoli florets maturing in cool fall temperatures are tighter, sweeter, and better quality than ones rushing to finish before summer heat. I learned this firsthand last year.
Most Kentucky gardeners only think about spring planting. Growing both seasons doubles your harvest and gives you a second chance if spring doesn’t go the way you planned.
| Crop | Western KY (Zone 7a/7b) | Central KY (Zone 7a) | Eastern KY (Zone 6b) | Notes |
| 🥦 Spring — | 🥦 Spring — Earliest Safe Transplant Date (plants into garden) | 🥦 Spring — Earliest Safe Transplant Date (plants into garden) | 🥦 Spring — Earliest Safe Transplant Date (plants into garden) | 🥦 Spring — |
| Broccoli (plants) | Mar 30 | Apr 5 | Apr 10 | Cold tolerant, handles light frost |
| Cabbage (plants) | Mar 30 | Apr 5 | Apr 10 | Same family as broccoli |
| Cauliflower (plants) | Mar 30 | Apr 5 | Apr 10 | Less frost tolerant than broccoli |
| 🍂 Fall — | 🍂 Fall — Transplant Date (plants into permanent location) | 🍂 Fall — Transplant Date (plants into permanent location) | 🍂 Fall — Transplant Date (plants into permanent location) | 🍂 Fall — |
| Broccoli (plants) | Aug 1 | Aug 8 | Aug 15 | Fall quality superior in KY |
| Cabbage (plants) | Aug 1 | Aug 8 | Aug 15 | |
| Cauliflower (plants) | Aug 1 | Aug 8 | Aug 15 |
Tip: Broccoli does best when started as transplants, not direct seeded. Either buy transplants from a local nursery or start your own indoors 4–6 weeks before your outdoor planting date.
From my homestead: I’m putting my Di Cicco transplants in mid-March in Zone 7a. For fall I’m looking at Comet — a reliable heading variety that does well in Kentucky fall conditions. I’ll update this post when I decide.
Which Broccoli Variety Should You Grow in Kentucky?
There are more broccoli varieties than most beginners realize, and the right choice depends on what you want from the plant.
Heading varieties — one main harvest
- Calabrese — what I grew last year. A classic Italian heading broccoli, reliable, good sized heads. Does well in Kentucky spring.
- Waltham 29 — also from last year. Open-pollinated, dependable, a Kentucky garden staple. Good for fall.
- Comet — my planned fall variety this year. Disease resistant and does well in our fall conditions.
- Marathon — cold tolerant, UK Extension recommended for early spring planting in Kentucky.
- Emerald Crown — UK Extension recommends this specifically for Kentucky fall growing. Larger head on a short plant.
Di Cicco — the variety I’m growing this spring
This is what I chose this year and I want to explain why, because it’s different from a standard heading broccoli.
Di Cicco is an heirloom Italian variety that produces a small main head — about 3 to 4 inches — followed by a long season of side shoot spears. Once you cut the main head, the plant keeps producing smaller shoots for weeks. That means a much longer harvest window than a single-cut heading variety.
- Days to maturity: around 48 days to the main head
- Side shoots: continue producing well after the main head is cut — pinching the main shoot encourages even heavier side shoot production
- Heirloom: open pollinated, you can save seeds
- Best for: gardeners who want a longer harvest season and don’t need uniform large heads
From my homestead: I chose Di Cicco specifically because of those side shoots. Last year’s broccoli was a one-and-done situation. This year I want the plant working longer for me — especially with the time I’m putting into soil prep and pest management. (Hopefully the heat won’t get them too soon!)
Tip: If you’re a first-time broccoli grower and want something more predictable, start with Calabrese or Waltham 29. Di Cicco is wonderful but the non-uniform maturity means it looks different from what you might expect.
The Real Problem with Growing Broccoli in Kentucky: The Worms
I’m going to spend some time on this because it’s the reason most Kentucky gardeners give up on broccoli after the first year. The worms are real and they are committed.
There are two main culprits, according to the UK Extension:
- Imported cabbageworm — the caterpillar of a white butterfly. If you see small white butterflies floating around your garden during the day, they are laying eggs on your broccoli leaves. The eggs hatch into green caterpillars that blend in perfectly with the plant and eat entire leaves.
- Cabbage looper — comes from a dark moth that lays eggs at night. Another green caterpillar, another reason to check the undersides of your leaves regularly.
Both are green. Both hide on the undersides of leaves. Both will eat your broccoli to stems if you let them get established.
From my homestead: Last year I spotted the damage before I spotted the worms. By the time I found them they were already well settled in. I lost a good chunk of leaf coverage before I got things under control. This year I’m not waiting for damage — I’m preventing it from the start.
My plan this year: onions and row cover
I’m taking a two-layer approach this season based on what I learned the hard way.
- Interplanting with onions — onions are being planted alongside my broccoli this spring while my polytunnel is going up and they need a home. The strong scent of onions is thought to confuse and deter the white cabbageworm butterflies from landing and laying eggs. This is my first year trying this combination intentionally — I’ll report back on whether it works.
- Row cover from day one — this is the most reliable physical barrier against egg-laying butterflies and moths. A lightweight floating row cover lets in light and water but keeps insects off the plants. Going on at planting, not after damage appears.
Tip: Turn leaves over every few days and look for small white or yellow eggs — catching them before they hatch is much easier than dealing with established caterpillars. Squish what you find.
Companion planting with onions fits into my broader Kentucky companion planting approach — you can read more about how I think about companions in the garden here: Kentucky Companion Planting Guide → bloomandpeck.com/kentucky-companion-planting/
How to Plant Broccoli in Kentucky
Transplants vs direct seeding
Broccoli does best transplanted into the garden as young plants rather than direct seeded. You can either buy transplants from a local nursery — which is the easiest option for beginners — or start your own indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your outdoor planting date.
Tip: If you’re buying transplants, look for stocky plants with thick stems. Leggy, tall transplants have been stretching for light and don’t establish as well.
Spacing
Give broccoli room — plants need 18 to 24 inches apart in a row. I know it looks sparse when you first plant them but broccoli gets big and needs airflow, especially in Kentucky’s humid conditions.
Soil prep
Broccoli is a heavy feeder. It rewards good soil preparation with bigger heads and stronger plants. I tilled and amended my bed this year specifically for this planting — worked in compost to improve both nutrition and water retention.
From my homestead: Last year my broccoli near the potato bed didn’t get enough water and the plants struggled. The ones in the raised bed with better water and extra fertilizer did noticeably better. Consistent moisture and nutrition makes a real difference with broccoli — don’t skip it.
Tip: Broccoli likes a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. If you haven’t tested your soil in a few years your local UK Extension office can test it for you cheaply.
The dirt raised bed
My broccoli this year is going into what I call a dirt raised bed — not a framed galvanized structure, just a tilled, amended, mounded area of good worked soil. It drains better than flat ground, warms up faster in spring, and gives the roots good loose soil to establish in.
You don’t need a fancy setup to grow good broccoli. You need good soil, consistent water, and a plan for the worms.
Spring vs Fall Broccoli in Kentucky — Which is Better?
Grow both if you can. But if I had to choose one based on last year’s experience — fall wins.
- Spring broccoli — you’re racing the heat. Plant early, hope for a cool May, harvest before June heat causes the heads to bolt and flower. It’s doable but you’re working against the clock.
- Fall broccoli — you’re working with the weather. Transplant in July, the plant grows through August heat, and then the heads mature in September and October as temperatures cool. The UK Extension specifically notes that fall broccoli quality in Kentucky is superior to spring. Tighter heads, better flavor, less worm pressure as temperatures drop.
From my homestead: Fall broccoli genuinely surprised me last year. I expected spring to be better and it wasn’t. The fall heads were tighter and the worm pressure dropped off significantly as the temperatures cooled in September. I’ll be planting fall again for sure — likely Comet this year.
Harvesting Broccoli
The main head is ready when it’s about 3 to 6 inches across and the buds are tight and dark green. Cut it 5 to 6 inches down the stem — don’t pull the plant.
Here’s the part beginners like me miss: after you cut the main head, the plant keeps producing. Smaller side shoots will develop from the stem and can be harvested over several more weeks. With Di Cicco this side shoot production is the whole point — the main head is almost secondary.
- Harvest before buds open into yellow flowers — once it flowers the broccoli is no longer good to eat.
- Check daily once heads form — broccoli can go from perfect to flowering faster than you’d expect in warm weather.
- Side shoots will be 1 to 3 inches — harvest them regularly to keep the plant producing.
Tip: Broccoli is best eaten the day it’s picked. If you’re storing it, keep unwashed in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
FAQ — When to Plant Broccoli in Kentucky
Can I plant broccoli in March in Kentucky?
Yes — mid to late March is the right window for most of Kentucky. Zone 7a gardeners can transplant by mid-March. Zone 6a should wait until late March or early April. Broccoli is cold tolerant and can handle light frost, but transplants need to be hardened off before going outside.
Is it too late to plant broccoli in April in Kentucky?
Early April is fine for Zone 6a. For Zone 7a, early April is pushing it for spring — your plants may not finish before June heat causes them to bolt. Plant as early as you can in spring and plan a fall planting as a backup.
Why does my broccoli turn yellow and flower before the head gets big?
This is called bolting and it happens when temperatures get too warm too fast. In Kentucky this is a common spring problem. Plant early to avoid it, and if your spring gets warm quickly, harvest the head even if it’s smaller than you’d like — a small tight head is better than a flowering one.
How do I get rid of worms on broccoli in Kentucky?
The two main culprits are the imported cabbageworm and the cabbage looper. Check the undersides of leaves every few days and squish any eggs or caterpillars you find. A lightweight row cover installed at planting prevents the butterflies and moths from laying eggs in the first place. Some gardeners use Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), an organic spray that targets caterpillars specifically without harming other insects.
Should I grow spring or fall broccoli in Kentucky?
Both if possible — but fall broccoli actually produces better quality heads in Kentucky. The UK Extension confirms that broccoli maturing in cool fall temperatures is superior to spring broccoli. For fall, transplant in July and harvest September through October.
Can I grow broccoli in a raised bed in Kentucky?
Absolutely — raised beds are ideal for broccoli in Kentucky because they drain well, warm up faster in spring, and make it easier to manage soil quality. Even a simple tilled and mounded dirt bed works well. Just make sure you have good amended soil and consistent water.
Back in the Garden, Better Prepared
The worms won a few rounds last year. But that’s how homesteading goes — you learn what your garden needs by growing in it, failing in it, and coming back the next season with a better plan.
This year the Di Cicco is going in with onions alongside it and row cover over it from day one. The bed is prepped, the soil is amended, and I know what I’m looking for on the undersides of those leaves.
Broccoli is worth the effort. Especially in fall. Especially fresh from your own Kentucky garden.
Happy growing,
Bloom & Peck Farm
Resources & Further Reading
- UK Cooperative Extension — Growing Broccoli Guide (NEP-225): publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/sites/publications.ca.uky.edu/files/NEP225.pdf
- UK Cooperative Extension — Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky (ID-128): publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/files/ID128.pdf
- UK Cooperative Extension — Kentucky Garden Calendar: planeatmove.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/NEP_GARDEN_calendar_printable2025_2.pdf
More From Bloom & Peck Farm
- When to Plant Peas in Kentucky → bloomandpeck.com/when-to-plant-peas-kentucky/
- When to Plant Cucumbers in Kentucky → bloomandpeck.com/how-to-grow-cucumbers-in-kentucky/
- Kentucky Companion Planting Guide → bloomandpeck.com/kentucky-companion-planting/
- Growing Raspberries in Kentucky → bloomandpeck.com/raspberry-revival-story-of-growing-tulamagic-with-intercropping/
- Kentucky Gardening Hub → bloomandpeck.com/kentucky-gardening/
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